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« Drinking Krug and Mondavi? | Main | Peter Reinhart's Napoletana Pizza Dough »
Wednesday
Oct182006

At What "Cost"

costco_wine_3.jpgThe nation’s largest wine retailer, how could I not go? Armed with a new membership card from my company I entered Costco. The size lives up to the reputation. What didn’t live up to the hype was the wine. Me and my gigantic shopping cart circled the wine section ready to stock up on the fabled bargains. I left without buying a bottle . The most exciting wine offered was Grgich Hills Cabernet Sauvignon, which is hardly a hard wine to find and not a very stimulating wine to drink.

There indeed is a sucker born every minute, because everyone else was packing their carts with bottles from Costco. There were no hot wines there,  just the same industrial crap that fills the aisles at most grocery stores. Were they cheaper? Who cares. These are wines not to buy.

While reading my Sunday paper I grabbed the Cost Plus ad. In the ad were such fine choices as Wrondo Dongo Mourvedre, Red Guitar, 7 Deadly Zins and Sin Zin. Cute names, but bad wines. Great prices? Sure enough, but who cares.

There can be no more reliable indicator of over-manipulated, industrial wines, that are the worst wine values in the world, than the regular wine selections of these “Cost” stores. In these stores you’ll find a list of wines to avoid. The wine buyers for these stores must be lazy, for there is no excuse in offering such mediocrity in an era that is producing better and better wines at lower and lower prices.  They certainly have no creativity or passion for the product that they buy.

What is the  “Cost”  that the buying power and marketing power of such mega-stores have on the industry? They don’t cost the industry a thing, but they cost the consumers a lot. If you want a good wine value avoid these “Cost” stores. Costco and Cost Plus and their brethren are to wine what McDonald’s is to hamburgers.

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Reader Comments (5)

hi Craig - it may be more a function of what the Cost* stores in your part of the world (Oregon?) can get. (Please correct me if I am wrong but I have the impression the 3-tier system is especially strong there, which may limit what Costco's wine buyers can get for their price points?)

At our local Costco, we don't find good bargains every time but we do often enough that a spin around the bins is worthwhile. For example they had Far Niente 2003 Chard at a great price for a few weeks and we were able to stock up.
October 19, 2006 | Unregistered Commenterjeff
Far Niente is overrated and can their '03 Chard can be found at Pavillions which leads me to believe they had a glut that they couldn't unload on their normal Dolce buyers...

As for Cost Plus, I actually think that they do have some more sense when it comes to wine selection. Maybe it's dumb luck, but personally I think Wrongo Dongo is a bargain, and I have gotten other Juan Gil and lower end D'Arenberg offerings there. When you're looking for wine in the under $20 range, they have their share of plonk but they also have some oddball, interesting choices that don't seem purely selected because of clever naming or cute labels. If there is any retailer to have a beef with, it is surely BevMo! which is the worst of the worst.
October 19, 2006 | Unregistered CommenterThe Dabbler
I've never seen a rating for Far Niente so I wouldn't know. I just liked the 2003. Later vintages I can take or leave.

If Cost Plus has d'Arenberg, I'm there. I've not yet had a disappointing d'Arenberg. Thanks for the tip.

I've been amazed to find some of my favorite rare tequilas at BevMo, though I am usually buying beer when at a BevMo. I agree the wine selection leaves a lot to be desired...
October 19, 2006 | Unregistered Commenterjeff
It's not that there is never a good wine at a good price at these stores. It's the fact that they obviously just don't put much effort into finding real bargains. But let's not be naive, it's the brands with the most payola that get the slots in these stores. Quality has little to do with their selections. For every Juan Gil there are dozens of bottles of corporate plonk that bought their way in.
October 19, 2006 | Unregistered CommenterCraig Camp
I couldn't agree more regarding BevMo...I watched them put two wine shops out of business including where I worked. Local customers went from exploring Chardonnay from the Sonoma Coast to buying Rombauer by the case. Sad really. Other "chain" stores have popped up offering no wine over $20 and their shelves too are littered with the usual suspects.
Costco does have designs on improving their selection - they are planning on training and staffing their wine sections, giving more autonomy to individual stores and what they can purchase, and allowing the individuals to buy as little as one six-pack if desired.
Will they really follow through with these plans or is this a covert marketing scheme?...I'm admittedly a bit of a skeptic, and will always shop at small local bottle shops first, but I will definitely be taking a longer look at the wine section in Costco in the future.
October 27, 2006 | Unregistered CommenterTim

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