Randall Grahm on Terroir #3

While I found the recent comments made by Randall Grahm on terroir compelling ( Randall Grahm on Terroir #1 and Randall Grahm on Terroir #2), you can’t help but be struck by the distance between Grahm’s commentary, which I agree with, and the results of his winemaking, which I don’t. While he talks a good game, it is well known that the wines of Bonny Doon no longer have any relationship to his wines of the early 80’s. Bonny Doon today is nothing more or less than an industrial wine producer, just like Mondavi or Kendall Jackson.

Bill Zacharkiw recently brought to my attention an outstanding anonymous post on his Caveman’s Wine Blog in response to his provocative post on Biodynamics. This excellent post and thread is well worth your reading and below you will find an excerpt from the long and thoughtful comments of “anonymous” on the topic of Randall Grahm and biodynamics.

 Is it Doonsday for US Biodynamics?
Randall Grahm’s Faustian deal

"Bonny Doon Vineyard, run by the irrepressible Randall Grahm, now produces nearly 400,000 cases of wine, yet it continues to cultivate an image of a small, boutique winery. Some of the wine world’s most innovative packaging is created by this estate, but, as I have written before, the quality in the bottle has declined from Bonny Doon’s glory years (in the mid-eighties) when Grahm was both a pioneer and a committed Rhone Ranger revolutionary. It now appears to be all about image and high production, resulting in somewhat innocuous offerings." - Robert Parker, June 2005

Over the past couple of years, Randall has been at a crossroads. He suffered with a rare bone infection, his estate vineyards died off, he was involved in a lawsuit for smuggling in “suit case cuttings” from France by Caymus Winery, and he has openly admitted to succumbing to “seditious winemaking legerdemain” ie., making bad wine passable by using dubious techniques in the cellar.

Now in a move that has some in the “real wine” movement worried, Grahm the Santa Cruz marketing wiz behind the bulk juice winery Bonny Doon - is taking up the mantel of Biodynamic. He recently lectured on the subject at UC Davis Viticultural program called Terroir and is now holding himself out to his wine professional colleagues that he is now a born-again Anthroposophist – “fighting for the soul of wine”.

What is Biodynamic wine?…

Read the full text of this compelling post on The Caveman’s Wine Blog at the link below.

The Caveman’s Wine Blog.

Comments

[St.Vini]

Although Mr. Grahm and I would hardly see eye-to-eye on Biodynamics or terroir, I found that post to be libelous and downright offensive. If you don't like the man's wines, fine (truth be told, I think his reds are pretty mediocre, but the whites tend to be pretty good) but I don't think that promoting an inaccurate and libelous article by some anonymous malcontent with an axe to grind benefits anyone, or serves your blog well.

Did you really read that comment and find it well-written or thoughtful?? Clearly a derivative slam disguised as journalism. Let's all do ourselves a favor and raise the level of discourse. Other forums (fora?) have deleted this guys rant, and I will do the same if he posts in on my blog.

Vini

[Craig Camp]

Speaking of rants, you call his comments a rant, but offer no rational points of disagreement. If you wish to discredit something at least take the time to make some credible points about your position - otherwise you are the one doing the ranting.

[St.Vini]

You completely missed the point. This is not about disagreeing on issues. The author clearly believes that Mr. Grahm is out to exploit Biodynamics. I have no opinion on that, nor do I really care one way or the other (he may be right for all I know).

What I care about is the character assassination that went along with it. I found his "points" to be a poorly disguised attempt to denigrate Randall's character. I also have no opinion on Mr. Grahm as I don't know him, but I thought that the insults were unnecessary and detracted from the point he was trying to make.

My "point" is that the missive isn't really about Biodynamic wines, but a device to exact a measure of revenge for a previous wrong done to the author. I'm frankly surprised it doesn't read that way to you. Hope that clears up where I'm coming from.

Cheers,
Vini

[Craig Camp]

Vini - I can see some of your concerns, but I would see this as written by hard-core biodymanic/organic believer who sees commercialization of their beloved biodynamics as sacrilege rather than sour grapes from some disgruntled ex-employee. The character attack reminded me of some some animal rights activist tossing red paint on someones mink coat. While such an attack is not appropriate behavior, it does not mean the perpetrator doesn't have a point of view that should not be heard.