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« Merlove - A movie about Merlot Wine | Main | Wine Notes »
Monday
07Jan2008

I Remember When...

clicquot-loveseat-1_12 I remember when it was easy to buy two of my favorite beverages, Champagne and Cognac.  A few decades ago you could hardly go wrong with either no matter the brand available. They were the perfect start and finish to any evening. The big brands were the best brands and wines like Veuve Clicquot Brut and spirits like Remy Martin were liquids to be contemplated, not just quaffed. Today these labels are more suitable for cocktails than snifters or flutes and are both brands to be avoided as bad values.

I always like to have bubbly in the fridge and enjoying an effervescent glass while cooking is a nightly preference. Lately, in addition to Venegazzu Prosecco, I’ve been buying the Spanish Cava brand Cristalino in both its Brut and Brut Rose versions at $7 a bottle and in all honesty prefer them both to Veuve Clicquot Brut. Many nights I also have a weakness for adding a dollop of Campari to my nightly bubbly aperitif and the Cristalino Brut is both financially and spiritually open to this experience. While the Clicquot is equally refreshing and enjoyable with Campari, the fact that it is five times the price makes the experience at least ten times less enjoyable. Buying Clicquot is getting way up there on the list of wines to buy only if you don’t know what you’re doing.

At the end of a rich dinner, few things are more necessary than a spirit to spur the digestion. That’s as good of a rationalization as any for letting yourself enjoy the warmth and good feelings brought to you by a fine brandy. It used to be that Remy Martin V.S.O.P was the most reliable Cognac around as it was widely available, reasonably priced and of excellent quality. Unfortunately, somewhere over the last twenty years Remy V.S.O.P. devolved into a warm caramel syrup. Today there are few large Cognac producers worth their weight in the caramelized sugar product known these days as Cognac.  While there are some wonderful small producers in Cognac, there is only one direction to turn for fine French brandy: Armagnac. For some reason this region has never become cool enough to push prices out of range, while simultaneously pushing down quality. Over the holidays I picked up a bottle of the 1974 Bas Armagnac, Domaine Le Basque an exceptional estate bottled spirit from Christiane & Michel Lamothe for a bit more than Remy V.S.O.P. and a bit less than the Remy X.O. and in comparison this earthy, fragrant spirit makes Remy look like industrial brandy from California.

Drinking Remy  and Clicquot used to make me feel stupid if I drank too much. Now they make me feel stupid to buy them at all.

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Reader Comments (7)

Unfortunately, many of the good old brands that we used to associate with quality products have used their reputation to sell mucho cases and let quality slip.My first pair of Reeboks was a fine pair of shoes made in England, the last pair I bought was probably made in a third world sweatshop and fell apart soon after I bought them.

The key is to find the producers who are moving up, not those that view their reputations as cash cows to milk.
January 8, 2008 | Unregistered Commenterbb
Has anyone seen Lisa Dinsmore's piece on Paso Robles? It's about how popular it's become. The good and the bad side haha.
http://www.oneforthetable.com/oftt/articles/paso-gains-popularity.html
January 8, 2008 | Unregistered Commenterjeremy
Nice spam.
January 8, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterCraig Camp
bb - that's the fact. There's nothing to destroy a good wine (or spirit) like success.
January 8, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterCraig Camp
Seems we are simpatico. A little Prosecco or Cava and campari is just a fine way to start the evening!Does that combination have a name?
January 9, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterJudith Klinger
I recently bought a 1974 Le Basque too and I have to say it's one of the finest Armagnacs I've had.

Wens
March 31, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterWenslauw
I had a very similar experience with Cognac. Suddenly it became obvious that we were drinking sweet (almost cloying) un-animated spirit that had none of explosive flavors or subtleties of the Cognacs of yesterday. That is , until I played the Blues Passions Blues Festival in Cognac (one of the biggest blues festivals in the world) and my guitar player (my brother Larry) fell in love with a beautiful Cognacais and decided to stay and start a family in Cognac. He went over to the Cognateque near his house and told them our problem: we find the name brand Cognacs too sweet and carmel-ly. We wondered if there were Cognacs that were more austere and closer to Armagnac. He told Larry to buy a bottle of Jean-Luc Pasquet's VSOP. He said this was made by Pasquet on his 6 hectare vineyard and is a shining example of how family made, artisan Cognacs (when made skillfully) reign supreme over the industrial Cognacs we are all used to. Long story short we became fast friends with Pasquet (Grand Champagne) and started really learning about Artisan Cognac, with his guidance. The biggest illumination was how terroir driven this spirit is. There are several crus in Cognac and all have differnt terroir and micro-climates. The big Four (hennessy,Remy, Martell and Courvoisier) buy their Eau de vie from these small producers and blend them into a consistent generic product. Often losing the individual characteristics of each cru. When we started to taste estate bottled Cognacs we realized there was a treasure trove of different styled Cognacs that were excellently crafted and very unique. It became clear that the myth that negociant-blended Cognacs are the best Cognacs, is very similar to the antiquated notion that blended Scotch was superior to Single Malt Scotch. So we organized 8 family owned (for generations) producers and created Family Tradition Cognac. And we are setting out to revolutionize the global perception of this elegant libation. We have our port folio in Illinois (Fine Vines LLC) , New York, NJ and CT, (Michael Skurnik Wines). Our entry level Cognac starts at around 45 bucks a bottle and those whup the tail off the XO products listed at around 125-185 bucks a pop. Our Cognacs have no caramel or "boise" (oak) added, they are not cold filterd, they under go super slow alcohol reduction etc etc. Our web site is familytraditioncognac.com. I know this is a bit spam-ish of me to post this but we do not have the multi million dollar marketing budgets of the big guys and have to use all grass roots methods to get the word out. This really is a service to the small family owned producers who have been plantationized by the big four. They are forced to sell their Eau de Vie to them in order to survive. Already two of our families have been able to break their contracts with the big guys and concentrate on making their own, luscious, artisan Brandy! Let’s support them!! Armagnac is cool but double distillation still rocks!!

Matthew Skoller Chicago,IL
June 23, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterMatthew Skoller

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