Self Confidence
Tuesday, August 5, 2008 at 9:26PM
It seems no matter how many centuries we've been around that Americans lack a certain self-confidence internationally. While perhaps not a big deal when it comes to food and wine, this attitude had caused more than a few foreign policy disasters and wars. We don't need to go into that here as there are a lot more political blogs than wine blogs.
This lack of vinous confidence despite decades of evidence to the contrary seems to have spawned two groups of fine wine consumers. The first group are the radical right wing winos who rant that big, bold American wines are the best and damn terroir, while the winey left wing socialists wax poetic about the intellectually superior wines from Europe. What both of these groups miss is the fact that American wines have come a long way baby. We make great wines here, but what we don't make (or try to make) anymore are European wines. The insecure, copycat days are gone and American winemakers make wines that are great, but different. Different is the important word as our wines have developed their own personality. You can like it or not, but that individuality is making American wines as exciting as European wines - in their own way.
Unfortunately the exciting Portland Oregon dining scene still lacks the confidence to appreciate the exciting diversity of wines from the Northwest. In their own backyard some of the world's finest wines are being grown, but restaurateurs can't get out of the confines of Portland to really taste and understand their own local wines. The really upsetting aspect of this is that it's hard to think of a restaurant scene that is more committed to local produce, but then features wines from 5000 miles away with food that they insist is local and sustainable. You can read my comments on this topic in my column in the Oregon Wine Press: Eat Local? Drink Local!.
Gone are the days when you have to feature European wines to have a great wine list. I suppose part of this problem is the fact that the best small European estates are represented by passionate importers like Joe Dressner who can market them as a whole bigger than the sum of its parts, while American wineries must go it alone. These dedicated importers give small European producers a bigger-than-life image due to their passionate sales efforts on their behalf. Small American wineries can barely afford a sales manager much less the travel and entertainment budget of a importer representing dozens of producers nationally. Because of this they get less attention from distributor sales staffs and the press. Strangely enough the American three tier system is stacked against American wineries, while giving small European producers that are part of a larger importer's portfolio an advantage.
The most important thing is that American wines no longer have to take a back seat to European wines. Neither is better, they're just different and that's the way it should be and American wine buyers should invest more time and effort to discover and understand our own wonderful wines. The self confidence of American wine buyers needs to catch up with that of American winemakers.
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Reader Comments (12)
In Europe you can get delicious local wines for a few Euros; I'll jump on the American Wine Train when the same is possible here. If it already is then please alert me to the producers and distributors who are responsible. Thanks.
The lack of local representation is a problem in Seattle restaurants as well. And this problem extends to <a href="http://beyondthebottle.com/blog/wine_bars/">wine bars</a>, with many featuring less expensive foreign wines over local producers.
At the end of the day, I see this as mostly a consumer-demand issue, where customers are just not willing to spend more on a local wine when a less expensive alternative exists on the menu. Even still, there are some inexpensive, quality wines being produced in Oregon and Washington (especially white wines), but these may be harder to come by in terms of access and distribution.
Importers like Joe Dressner have wonderful portfolios, but importers like Joe and the others Beau mentions are wine detectives. They have to work to find the gems they discover, because most of the wines produced in these regions are just not very good. The situation is the same here, but the best small American producers don't have an advocate like Joe out there and have to go it alone, which means that many great wines go undiscovered. Perhaps someone should be doing for natural American wines what Joe has done for his producers.
I also no longer buy the price issue. There are many good NW wines under $20 and a lot under $30 retail (Belle Vallee for example). Of course the best wines are expensive, but that's generally the situation in France too.
Great post and hats off to you for having the courage, honesty AND the authority to write it.
Blog on... Jeremy
I think we all run into trouble when we try to find old world wines in the new world. I'm guilty of that as are many winemakers. The fact of the matter is that you can't make Barolo, Burgundy, Muscadet or Soave (and countless other wines) outside of those regions. There may be similar wines, even made from the same varieties, but they will always be pale imitations for those seeking only duplication. Wines must exist in their own right and with their own personality no matter where they're made or from what variety or they have no reason for being. Where we get into trouble is if we want them to match another wine from another place - and often culture.
I think the results of your tasting expedition are telling There are good wines everywhere if we're open to the experience - even if that experience is different to what you're accustomed to. We can't seek duplicates of our favorites, but should seek out new flavors - just as we do when seeking out new and interesting foods when we travel.
There can be no doubt that buying local wines varies very much by where you live. Within a half day drive of where I live there are around 1,000 wineries. That makes buying local for me a very different thing than it is for you.
What varieties do they grow in OK?
Another stellar post. I agree with you completely and although it is only in the beginning stages my website and blog are focused on presenting the best California, Oregon, and Washington wines available.
Although I align myself more with Kermit Lynch than Joe Dressner I hope to be a voice for the producers who are having trouble marketing themselves to a broader audience. I am very much in the baby stage of this project and even I do not know the scope of its impact, but I hope that I can help slowly change the backward thinking that European Wines are the only wines to drink for those of us who prefer wines with soul.