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« The Three Faces of Pinot Noir | Main | IPNC 2008: Sparkling Soter »
Tuesday
Aug052008

Self Confidence

self-confidenceIt seems no matter how many centuries we've been around that Americans lack a certain self-confidence internationally. While perhaps not a big deal when it comes to food and wine, this attitude had caused more than a few foreign policy disasters and wars. We don't need to go into that here as there are a lot more political blogs than wine blogs.

This lack of vinous confidence despite decades of evidence to the contrary seems to have spawned two groups of fine wine consumers. The first group are the radical right wing winos who rant that big, bold American wines are the best and damn terroir, while the winey left wing socialists wax poetic about the intellectually superior wines from Europe. What both of these groups miss is the fact that American wines have come a long way baby. We make great wines here, but what we don't make (or try to make) anymore are European wines. The insecure, copycat days are gone and American winemakers make wines that are great, but different. Different is the important word as our wines have developed their own personality. You can like it or not, but that individuality is making American wines as exciting as European wines - in their own way.

Unfortunately the exciting Portland Oregon dining scene still lacks the confidence to appreciate the exciting diversity of wines from the Northwest. In their own backyard some of the world's finest wines are being grown, but restaurateurs can't get out of the confines of Portland to really taste and understand their own local wines. The really upsetting aspect of this is that it's hard to think of a restaurant scene that is more committed to local produce, but then features wines from 5000 miles away with food that they insist is local and sustainable. You can read my comments on this topic in my column in the Oregon Wine Press: Eat Local? Drink Local!.

Gone are the days when you have to feature European wines to have a great wine list. I suppose part of this problem is the fact that the best small European estates are represented by passionate importers like Joe Dressner who can market them as a whole bigger than the sum of its parts, while American wineries must go it alone. These dedicated importers give small European producers a bigger-than-life image due to their passionate sales efforts on their behalf. Small American wineries can barely afford a sales manager much less the travel and entertainment budget of a importer representing dozens of producers nationally. Because of this they get less attention from distributor sales staffs and the press. Strangely enough the American three tier system is stacked against American wineries, while giving small European producers that are part of a larger importer's portfolio an advantage.

The most important thing is that American wines no longer have to take a back seat to European wines. Neither is better, they're just different and that's the way it should be and American wine buyers should invest more time and effort to discover and understand our own wonderful wines.  The self confidence of American wine buyers needs to catch up with that of American winemakers.

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Reader Comments (12)

Bravo on pointing out the silliness in extremes and in picking a "team" based on geography and/or politics. But I still have some doubts and concerns about our own, homegrown wine. I'm sure there are plenty of small estates all along the West Coast (and hopefully around the Country) that are following the same basic principles and philosophies of winemaking as the small, much heralded producers in Dressner's portfolio, as well as Rosenthal or Jenny and Francois or Kermit Lynch etc. etc. But how much do most of these "real" American wines retail for? Most of Joe's wines still sell for b/w 15 and 25 U.S. dollars. If you can buy the BEST Beaujolais for 25 to 30 bucks or amazing Loire Cabernet Franc. then why spend the same or more on newer, riskier wines from the States? And all of these European Importer Extraordinaires still have lots of good, inexpensive table wines made respectfully and naturally and they cost the same as most American wines despite currency values and shipping costs.

In Europe you can get delicious local wines for a few Euros; I'll jump on the American Wine Train when the same is possible here. If it already is then please alert me to the producers and distributors who are responsible. Thanks.
August 6, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterBeau Rapier
I agree that many Oregon and Washington red wines are just cost-prohibitive for restaurants to feature on their lists. This is less true with white wines, which seem to be more price competitive with their foreign counterparts.

The lack of local representation is a problem in Seattle restaurants as well. And this problem extends to <a href="http://beyondthebottle.com/blog/wine_bars/">wine bars</a>, with many featuring less expensive foreign wines over local producers.

At the end of the day, I see this as mostly a consumer-demand issue, where customers are just not willing to spend more on a local wine when a less expensive alternative exists on the menu. Even still, there are some inexpensive, quality wines being produced in Oregon and Washington (especially white wines), but these may be harder to come by in terms of access and distribution.
August 6, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterThad
First I think we need to debunk the image of Europe being full of all these wonderful local wines you can buy for a song. The vast majority of European wines are industrially produced in giant wine factories, which make wines from vineyards farmed conventionally. Having not long ago returned from three years there, I can attest that most of these wines are awful.

Importers like Joe Dressner have wonderful portfolios, but importers like Joe and the others Beau mentions are wine detectives. They have to work to find the gems they discover, because most of the wines produced in these regions are just not very good. The situation is the same here, but the best small American producers don't have an advocate like Joe out there and have to go it alone, which means that many great wines go undiscovered. Perhaps someone should be doing for natural American wines what Joe has done for his producers.

I also no longer buy the price issue. There are many good NW wines under $20 and a lot under $30 retail (Belle Vallee for example). Of course the best wines are expensive, but that's generally the situation in France too.
August 6, 2008 | Registered CommenterCraig Camp
I didn't mean to suggest that supermarket wine in Europe is any better than here, in fact it may often be worse. But it was Italy and France and Austria and even Spain that introduced me to the pleasure of fresh, local and cheap table wine on my sojourns in Europe. I'm not suggesting that these wines were great, or even very good, but they worked perfectly as partners with the local cuisine, and again . . . cheap. I've not been back since 2006 so I'm sure everything is more expensive for those of us w/ American dollars to spend, but this is why I'm anxious for winemakers here in the States to start bottling the rough equivalent (not copy) of lagrein or falanghina or gruner veltliner or gamay and selling it in bulk to restaurants for carafe wine or packaging it in liter bottles that sell for $6, which is what those European wines that retail here for $12 to $15 would sell for in their respective regions. These types of wines don't have much marketing in Europe and I don't think local wines would need it here if they were good and, again, cheap. Perhaps there's some blame to lay on the feet of America's strange liquor distribution laws and system, but I still think that as long as you can get great Muscadet for $12 (who knows how little in France) than what's the incentive to spend $15 on an Oregon Pinot Gris? But if that same pinot gris was $10 for a liter carafe at some cafe in Portland, then sign me up.
August 6, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterBeau Rapier
Craig, one of the things I like so much about your blog is how you speak from the perspective of a winemaker and a winelover... In your spectrum of wine drinkers, I definitely fall on the whiny leftist side and I tend toward European "natural" wines. Having said that, a friend recently challenged me to a trip to Fallbrook and Temecula where I was convinced I wouldn't find any wine I could drink. Lo and behold, of the three wineries I visited, two turned out to be really interesting winemakers: I didn't like all of their wines but I liked a number in each flight, as it were. It made me realize an inherent contradiction in my attitude toward wine: as a whiny leftist I SHOULD BE DRINKING locally produced wines. Just as making wine is an inherently ideological act, so is buying and consuming wine. You're 100% correct: we "Americans" suffer from low self-esteem and we think Europeans are the only ones entitled to romanticism. I've traveled extensively in Italy, I speak Italian with native proficiency, I've lived and worked there and know many winemakers well. I can say with some authority that our notion of their romantic notion is highly romanticized. In fact, except for "gentleman farmer" winemakers, Italian winemakers are just trying to make a living like everyone else. Some have learned to market their wines better than other but there's not much romantic about it. This comment is beginning to sound like a post (and a rant, actually). So I'll stop here.

Great post and hats off to you for having the courage, honesty AND the authority to write it.

Blog on... Jeremy
August 6, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterJeremy Parzen
Jeremy - as always, thanks for your kind words.

I think we all run into trouble when we try to find old world wines in the new world. I'm guilty of that as are many winemakers. The fact of the matter is that you can't make Barolo, Burgundy, Muscadet or Soave (and countless other wines) outside of those regions. There may be similar wines, even made from the same varieties, but they will always be pale imitations for those seeking only duplication. Wines must exist in their own right and with their own personality no matter where they're made or from what variety or they have no reason for being. Where we get into trouble is if we want them to match another wine from another place - and often culture.

I think the results of your tasting expedition are telling There are good wines everywhere if we're open to the experience - even if that experience is different to what you're accustomed to. We can't seek duplicates of our favorites, but should seek out new flavors - just as we do when seeking out new and interesting foods when we travel.
August 6, 2008 | Registered CommenterCraig Camp
Beau - I certainly agree with you. I have to admit, those simple local wines in Europe are often much improved by the wonderful food served with them, but that's another issue!
August 6, 2008 | Registered CommenterCraig Camp
My issue with the American wine scence is that it is so hard to get local wines depending on where you live. I live in OK and it is impossible for local wineries to sell wine direct to restaurants or anyone else for that matter. I know this is the case for many other states as well. Until the US has a more propen system for direct distibution from seller to consumer I think local wine will be only possible in a few states. For a wine newbie searching for new expierences and tastes this is extremely frustrating...thank god our state doesn't restrict internet buying like some do.
August 7, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterKVolk
That sucks beyond belief. That's what happens when anti-alcohol religious groups control the legislation. I'm amazed they let you buy online, but thankfully they do.

There can be no doubt that buying local wines varies very much by where you live. Within a half day drive of where I live there are around 1,000 wineries. That makes buying local for me a very different thing than it is for you.

What varieties do they grow in OK?
August 7, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterCraig Camp
I have seen merlot, cab, chard, and some tempranillo, muscat?, traminette, seyval,zinfandel, riesling...talking to the winery closest to my house he said people are trying a lot of different things to try and find things that work with our extreme heat issues. He also said the industry is really in pre-formative stages and they really are trying to boot strap the industry and produce wine at the same time. They lobby the state to get the laws changed but it is never easy to change alcohol related laws in this state.
August 7, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterKVolk
Craig,

Another stellar post. I agree with you completely and although it is only in the beginning stages my website and blog are focused on presenting the best California, Oregon, and Washington wines available.

Although I align myself more with Kermit Lynch than Joe Dressner I hope to be a voice for the producers who are having trouble marketing themselves to a broader audience. I am very much in the baby stage of this project and even I do not know the scope of its impact, but I hope that I can help slowly change the backward thinking that European Wines are the only wines to drink for those of us who prefer wines with soul.
August 7, 2008 | Unregistered Commenteradam
Adam - thanks for your kind comments. Soul is what it's all about when it comes to wines that speak to you.
August 7, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterCraig Camp

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